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Unilock Windows & Doors: The Los Angeles Owner’s Guide
If your Unilock window or door has a failed sash, stripped operator, cracked weather seal, or a latch that no longer catches, we stock and install replacement Unilock-compatible parts across Los Angeles. Installed pricing for most Unilock window and door repairs runs $470 – $2,125 depending on the part, though full replacements start around $5,310 for a standard window and climb from there. Most owners discover the failure the way you just did: a window that suddenly won’t stay up, a door that sticks in the frame at 7 a.m., or a draft that showed up after three Santa Ana wind seasons. The part usually didn’t fail overnight, it’s been wearing down since the first time the builder-grade hardware got forced past its stop.
We’re an independent Los Angeles contractor, not a Unilock dealer. That matters because we’re not pushing one product line, we’re matching the part to what’s actually in your opening. Give you a number first, then pick up the tools.
Which Unilock Models This Applies To

Unilock has manufactured window and door hardware under several series names over the years, and the parts are not all interchangeable. The most common units we see in Los Angeles homes built between roughly 1995 and 2015 are the Unilock balance-and-sash assemblies used in aluminum and vinyl retrofit windows. These units use a spiral balance rod inside the side jamb; the rod diameter and length determine which replacement cartridge fits. Measure the rod, not the window. A 5/8-inch rod with a 19-inch length is not the same part as a 9/16-inch rod at 21 inches, even though both windows look identical from across the room.
For Unilock patio doors, the failure point is almost always the roller assembly or the strike plate. Older Unilock sliding doors in Los Angeles used a single-wheel steel roller that rusts at the axle in coastal moisture zones like Playa del Rey and San Pedro. The replacement roller fits by mounting plate width and wheel diameter, and there are two plate widths that look nearly identical. If you buy the wrong one, the door sits 3/16 inch too high and the lock no longer lines up. We measure before we order.
OEM Unilock parts are still available for many models, but aftermarket equivalents from brands like Prime-Line and Truth Hardware often match or exceed the original spec at thirty to fifty percent less. For a door roller that lives out its life in salt air, we usually recommend the aftermarket sealed-bearing version over the OEM steel-axle part. We’ll tell you when the OEM is the better call, and when it’s not.
Styles & brands we work with







Signs Your Unilock Windows & Doors Is Failing
- Window won’t stay up, or slams down when released. The spiral balance cartridge has lost tension. On Unilock units this usually means the internal spring has fatigued or the tension clip at the bottom of the tube has cracked. A window that slams shut can break the glass or a finger, so don’t prop it open with a stick and wait.
- Door drags or you have to lift it to lock it. The bottom rollers have flattened or the axles have rusted. On older Unilock sliders, this wears the track at the same time, and a worn track will eat new rollers in six months. We surface or replace the track when we do the rollers.
- Draft around a closed window or door, worse in winter. The weather seal, the pile strip, or the vinyl bulb has compressed flat. In Los Angeles this is sneaky because the weather is mild. You notice it on the two cold weeks in January, ignore it, and the utility bill tells the truth year round.
- Latch or lock won’t catch, or binds halfway. On Unilock casement and awning windows, the multi-point lock bars drift out of alignment. On sliders, the strike plate has been wallowed out by years of the door rattling in the wind. Both are fixable without replacing the whole unit.
- Condensation or haze between the glass panes. The insulating glass unit seal has failed. Once argon or krypton gas leaks out, no repair restores the thermal performance. The glass unit gets replaced, not resealed, and in a retrofit frame that’s a straightforward swap for a glazier.
See the difference
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After
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AfterReplacement Cost & What’s Included

For Los Angeles homeowners, here’s what we typically see for Unilock window and door work:
- Balance cartridge replacement (single window): $470 – $825 installed, including the part, labor, and a written guarantee.
- Sliding door roller and track service: $590 – $1,415 installed, depending on whether the track needs surfacing or replacement.
- Weather seal and pile strip replacement (per window or door): $295 – $710, materials and labor.
- Insulated glass unit replacement: $825 – $2,125 depending on size, glass package, and whether the sash needs new gaskets.
- Full window replacement (Unilock-compatible retrofit): $5,310 – $17,700 for typical Los Angeles openings, driven by glass package, frame material, and whether interior trim work is needed.
Every one of those numbers is the written price before work starts. No verbal ballpark, no door-knock add-ons. The quote includes the part, the labor, the cleanup, and our 365-Day Done Right Promise in writing. If the repair fails inside the guarantee period, we come back and fix it at no charge, no service call, no re-inspection fee. That’s the Kingswell standard, and it’s been the way we operate since 2004.
DIY or Call Us?
Honest answer: most Unilock window and door failures are not good DIY projects. The balance cartridges are under tension, and releasing that tension without the right tool sends a steel rod through the jamb. If you’re lucky, it’s the jamb. If you’re not, it’s your hand. We do not recommend it.
What you can safely do is identify the part. Look for the manufacturer sticker on the top or side of the sash. Measure the visible hardware, take pictures, and call us at (213) 277-6578 with the information. We’ll tell you over the phone whether it sounds like a balance, a roller, or a seal, and what the likely range is before anyone drives out. The free estimate is real: we measure, we confirm the part, we hand you a written number, and you decide. No pressure from us either way.
FAQs

Most Unilock window units in Southern California give 15 to 25 years of service before the hardware needs work, though coastal homes in areas like Venice and Long Beach see roller and spring failures years earlier because of salt air and marine moisture. The frame and glass usually outlast the moving parts, which is why repair often makes more sense than replacement. Call (213) 277-6578 for an honest assessment.
Some parts can be repaired, but in practice most we replace: a fatigued spiral balance, a rusted roller axle, or a cracked strike plate is a $40 – $190 part, and the labor to rebuild it would cost more than the new part. Glass units are never resealed; they get replaced. We’ll show you the old part and explain exactly what failed before we install the new one.
Most single-window balance or roller jobs are done in an hour to ninety minutes once we’re on site. Glass unit swaps take about two hours. We give you a written arrival window before the appointment, and a live person answers when you call to check on the schedule. Call (213) 277-6578 any time.
We stock the most common Unilock balance cartridges, door rollers, latches, and weather seals on our trucks, and we can source odd or discontinued parts from our Los Angeles suppliers within a few business days. If the part on your window is a less common spec, we’ll tell you the lead time before anything is ordered. For an exact quote on your unit, call (213) 277-6578.
We also stock or source parts for KraftMaid and Cambria cabinetry and Silestone countertops, so if your Unilock repair turns out to be part of a larger opening issue, we can handle the surrounding work too.
Written by Trevor Nash, Owner, Penhallow Remodeling Los Angeles at Penhallow Remodeling Los Angeles, serving Los Angeles and nearby areas.


