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A remodeled kitchen with a wood island, painted cabinets and a plaster range hood

Unilock Kitchen Remodeling Nationwide

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A remodeled kitchen with a waterfall island and wood cabinets
An open kitchen and dining area after a remodel
A galley kitchen opened up to the dining room with a new peninsula
A stone counter, tile backsplash and open shelf after a kitchen remodel
New painted shaker cabinets with an organized deep drawer
A remodeled hall bathroom with subway tile and a floating vanity
A remodeled primary suite with built-in wardrobes and a window seat
A garage converted into a guest room and home office
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Unilock Kitchen Remodeling: The Los Angeles Owner’s Guide

Unilock kitchen remodeling in Los Angeles typically runs $16,520 to $53,100 installed, depending on the scope of work, cabinet line, and countertop material you choose. We stock Unilock-compatible materials and handle the full remodel from demo through final walkthrough, with a written price before any work starts. Most Los Angeles homeowners reach out after living with a kitchen that stopped working for them years ago: cracked tile, drawers that stick, a layout that traps two people in a corner, or a patio door feeding into a kitchen that no longer serves how the family actually cooks.

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We’re an independent Los Angeles general contractor, not affiliated with Unilock. But we work with their materials regularly and know where they hold up well and where Southern California’s specific conditions cause trouble. That experience means we can give you a straight answer about what to reuse, what to replace, and what it’ll cost before a single cabinet gets pulled.

Which Unilock Models This Applies To

A walk-in pantry with wood shelving

Unilock product lines cover a wide range of hardscape and exterior materials, and in kitchen applications around Los Angeles we see their tile and stone veneer products used most often for backsplashes, accent walls, and island facings. The compatibility question isn’t as simple as matching a model number, because Unilock’s kitchen-adjacent products are typically sold by collection and finish rather than a part number like a faucet or appliance.

The gotcha we see regularly: homeowners find a cracked sectional from an older Unilock production run and try to match it with a new piece from the same collection. Colors shift between production batches, and if the original was installed more than five years ago, the surface patination has changed too. We pull the original packaging or a photo of the lot code when possible, and measure the exact dimensions before ordering replacement pieces. If a true match isn’t available, we’ll tell you that plainly. Sometimes the right fix is resurfacing or re-tiling the damaged section entirely, and we’ll price that option alongside the match attempt so you can decide with real numbers in hand.

For aftermarket alternatives, there are quality options that replicate Unilock finishes at lower cost, but the fit and finish varies by supplier. We stock samples from recognized trade brands and bring them to your walkthrough so you can see the difference in natural light, not a showroom floor.

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Styles & brands we work with

Kitchen remodeling
Kitchen remodeling
Bathroom remodeling
Bathroom remodeling
Home additions & ADU
Home additions & ADU
Roofing
Roofing
Windows & doors
Windows & doors
Driveway & pavers
Driveway & pavers
Fence
Fence

Signs Your Unilock Kitchen Remodeling Is Failing

  • Cracked or spalling tile on the backsplash or island facing. In Los Angeles, the freeze-thaw cycle isn’t the issue the way it is in the Northeast. What we see instead is substrate movement from settling or moisture getting behind the tile through failed grout, which causes the surface layer to crack and flake away over time.
  • Grout crumbling or powdery to the touch. This usually means water has been working its way behind the install for a while. Once the grout fails, the cement board or mortar behind it starts degrading, and the tile loses its bond.
  • Staining that won’t come out, especially around the cooktop or sink. Unilock surfaces are sealed at install, but the sealer wears down. Once that protection is gone, cooking oil and hard water soak in. A deep stain is usually a sign the sealer needs redoing, not that the material itself failed.
  • Visible lippage, where one tile sits higher than its neighbor. This can happen right after a bad install or years later as the setting material breaks down. Either way, it catches your eye every time you walk past and is a tripping concern on any step-down or threshold transition.
  • Island facing pulling away or sounding hollow when tapped. Hollow spots mean the bond between the stone and the substrate has failed. Left alone, those pieces will eventually crack or fall off completely.
Before & after

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Before - Recent ProjectBeforeAfter - Recent ProjectAfter
Recent Project
Before - Full RestorationBeforeAfter - Full RestorationAfter
Full Restoration
Before - Complete UpgradeBeforeAfter - Complete UpgradeAfter
Complete Upgrade

Replacement Cost & What’s Included

A small remodeled galley kitchen with cabinets to the ceiling

In Los Angeles, a full Unilock-focused kitchen remodel runs $16,520 to $53,100. The spread is wide because the scope varies so much. Here’s what drives it:

  • Small kitchen remodel: $10,620 – $23,600
  • Cabinet installation: $4,720 – $15,340
  • Countertop installation: $2,360 – $7,670
  • Backsplash installation: $945 – $2,950
  • Kitchen island installation: $3,540 – $11,800

Those numbers include materials, labor, demo and haul-away, and the written 365-Day Done Right Promise. If the work fails inside that year, we come back and fix it at no charge. That’s not a verbal assurance. It’s on the paperwork you get before we start.

What moves the price: cabinet line (stock vs. semi-custom), countertop material (laminate, quartz, or natural stone), and whether you’re changing the footprint or working within the existing layout. A kitchen that keeps its current plumbing and electrical locations costs less than one where we’re moving the sink and adding circuits. We’ll show you the line items so you can see exactly where your dollars go.

DIY or Call Us?

Some things you can check yourself. Confirm whether the cracked tile is actually loose by tapping it with a wooden spoon handle. A hollow sound means the bond is gone. Look for water staining below the sink and around the dishwasher connection, because that will tell us whether the failing tile is a surface issue or a sign of a leak behind the wall. If the surface is just faded, a reseal might buy you a few more years.

What we don’t recommend doing yourself: pulling tile off a wet wall to see what’s behind it, or trying to color-match replacement Unilock pieces online. We’ve walked into kitchens where a homeowner pulled a loose tile and found mold under the cement board, and now the job is twice the size they thought. If the substrate is compromised, the fix isn’t a tile swap. It’s demolition, moisture remediation, and a proper reinstall. That’s where the written price up front matters most. Give you a number first, then pick up the tools.

If you’re not sure what you’re looking at, call (213) 277-6578 and talk it through. We’ll ask a few questions and tell you honestly if it’s worth a service visit.

FAQs

Installers leveling a new base cabinet during a kitchen remodel

Getting started with Penhallow in Los Angeles

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